Well readers, tiramisu's history is almost as foggy as the espresso
that gives it its amazing flavor. At the heart of some vigorous debate among
Italian dessert lovers, tiramisu definitely got its start in Italy sometime
between the early 18 th century and the mid 20 th century. Some say its first
incarnation was made to celebrate a visit by the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Cosimo
III, to the city of Siena . Since Cosimo passed away in 1723, we can only guess
he was fed the cake sometime before that year.
However, other culinary websites and Italian cookbooks place
tiramisu's origins as relatively recent as 1971. Tiramisu as we know it today
is said to have been created that year in the northern Italian town of Treviso
. Even still, the first reference to the dessert doesn't appear in print until
1983.
Ancient origins, modern sweets
Perhaps it's simpler to break down tiramisu's ingredients
and examine the dessert's history from a slightly more defined angle. The
savoiardi cookies at the heart of this treat have been around since the 15 th
century. They get the nickname “ladyfingers” from their long cylindrical shape
and are often used as a base for desserts such as fruit or custard trifles.
Savoiardi are said to be named for the northern Italian
court where they originated, the Duchy of Savoy. This principality now shares
much of its territory with modern-day France , and appropriately enough, the
cookies are said to have been first prepared to celebrate a visit to the Duchy
by the king of France . Because of their leaven-free nature, ladyfingers became
a popular treat for Orthodox Jewish families at Passover.
Espresso also has a storied past. While coffee itself can be
traced back hundreds of years, espresso is a relatively recent invention.
Created in 1903, when the world seemed to be turning to the modern inclination
of wanting everything done better and faster, an Italian businessman named
Luigi Bezzera was looking for a way to make coffee brewing less time consuming.
Bezzera created a machine that added intense pressure to the
brewing process and extracted more flavor from the beans at the same time.
Thanks to the quick brewing process, the liquid that resulted from using this
“Fast Coffee Machine”, took on the name espresso, which is Italian for “fast”.
It signaled a permanent change to the way Italians drink coffee.
As you're likely already aware, the popularity of espresso
has exploded in the United States in the last 20 years. From discount espresso
machines like the Bialetti moka pots that are seen in nearly every kitchen in
Italy to the ultra-modern Jura Capresso , a freshly made espresso will be the
perfect finish to any tiramisu.
A tasty pick me up
One thing we can know for sure about tiramisu is that the
Italians have always been aware of the buzz-inducing properties that come with
the combination of espresso and sugar. The origins of the word
"tiramisu" itself come from two Italian words that literally mean
"pull me up" or “pick me up”, Tiramisu. It is thought that the cakes,
sans alcohol, were originally made into round shapes and meant for children and
the elderly.
Recipe
INGREDIENTS
- 2 cups boiling-hot water
- 3 tablespoons instant-espresso powder
- 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar, divided
- 3 tablespoons Tia Maria (coffee liqueur)
- 4 large egg yolks
- 1/3 cup dry Marsala
- 1 pound mascarpone (2 1/2 cups)
- 1 cup chilled heavy cream
- 36 savoiardi (crisp Italian ladyfingers; from two 7-ounce packages)
- Unsweetened cocoa powder for dusting
PREPARATION
- Stir together water, espresso powder, 1 tablespoon sugar, and Tia Maria in a shallow bowl until sugar has dissolved, then cool.
- Beat egg yolks, Marsala, and remaining 1/2 cup sugar in a metal bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water using a whisk or handheld electric mixer until tripled in volume, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove bowl from heat.
- Beat in mascarpone until just combined.
- Beat cream in a large bowl until it holds stiff peaks.
- Fold mascarpone mixture into whipped cream gently but thoroughly.
- Dipping both sides of each ladyfinger into coffee mixture, line bottom of a 13- by 9- by 3-inch baking pan with 18 ladyfingers in 3 rows, trimming edges to fit if necessary.
- Spread half of mascarpone filling on top. Dip remaining 18 ladyfingers in coffee and arrange over filling in pan.
- Spread remaining mascarpone filling on top and dust with cocoa. Chill, covered, at least 6 hours.
- Let tiramisu stand at room temperature 30 minutes before serving, then dust with more cocoa.
Note:
You can substitute 2 cups freshly brewed espresso for the
water and instant-espresso powder.
Tiramisu can be chilled up to 2 days.
